Is Larkspur really “Gourmet-Berry?”

Larkspur has been one of the hottest markets in Marin residential real estate. Last year, average sale price increased 25%, vs. an average of 16% for Marin County. Why the big jump?

Part of it is the same reason the other one of the “Twin Cities”, Corte Madera has also grown so quickly – schools, commute, and weather. But Larkspur also has a beautiful, historic, three block downtown strip that houses some of the best restaurants in the country. Just ask Gourmet, Bon Appetit, or Mario Batali, noted cookbook author, Food Network star, and New York restaurateur. Some locals even now call it “Gourmet-Berry.”

In the three block stretch beginning at Madrone Canyon and ending at Ward Street, there are half a dozen places that have received national attention, and several others just as good that are still under the radar.

The Lark Creek Inn, the place that put Bradley Ogden on the map nearly 20 years ago, is still the most elegant dining room in Marin, without being stuffy or overly formal. Set in a beautiful redwood grove in a historic old building, the food still packs in the crowds.

Right next door is Yankee Pier, one of Ogden’s more recent additions. Based on a New England crab shack, the seafood-oriented menu consistently lands this restaurant on the San Francisco Chronicle’s 100 Best Restaurants list.

It gets better. Right next door is Picco and Pizzeria Picco. Picco was named one of the 10 Best New Restaurants in the Bay Area by the Chronicle when it opened last year. And the Pizzeria’s innovative, thin crust pizzas (all named for bicycles) were called by Mario Batali (of Food Network fame) “the best pizza in America,” in Gourmet just a few months ago.

That’s tough competition. But don’t tell that to the people who run the Left Bank, where Roland Passot has consistently served “cuisine grand’mere” for years. It focuses on simple, French country cooking, like steak frites, and roast chicken. Personally, I think it’s gone a bit downhill, but last time we ate there Sean Penn, Lars Ulrich, and some of their friends were seated nearby, so our daughters still talk about it.

Emporio Rulli has been featured in Bon Appetit and Gourmet. It’s the closest thing to walking into a European café you’ll find in this country. Not surprising either, since Gary Rulli, the owner, apprenticed for years in bakeries in Milan. Incredible pastries, desserts, gelato, and chocolates but more importantly, the best coffee in town. It’s the place to see everyone in Larkspur in the morning, drinking coffee so strong that even Peet’s seems watery by comparison.

Now, those are just the restaurants that have gotten national press. But Larkspur and Corte Madera locals know that they can always get great Italian food at Fabrizio’s, or Chinese at CJ’s. Both are packed with locals nightly. And the Ward Street Café is taking off also, with innovative dishes such as leg of lamb pastrami on foccacia at lunch.

Ask any kid in town where their favorite place is, and you’ll hear about Donut Alley. Every morning, the smell of freshly made donuts is all over Magnolia Avenue, and school children are lined up to get a donut before school starts. So much for the myth about Marin parents freaking out about their kid’s diets. Nothing like a hot chocolate and a glazed chocolate donut to start your day.

Still not enough? Where do you go after dinner? Well, there is also a real, honest to goodness dive bar, right in the middle of all of this. My brother was visiting Larkspur recently, and I told him there was a real dive bar right in the middle of town. Impossible, he said, until he stuck his head inside. “Wow, that’s a dive,” he said emphatically.

My brother may think so, but Larkspur and Corte Madera residents love the Silver Peso, dead smack in the middle of town. Stop by any Friday night at 5:30, and you may get to meet members of the Corte Madera-Larkspur Book Club, a group of men who formed the club several years ago because their wives had a book club, and they were jealous.

It differs from their wive’s book club in two important ways. First, it meets weekly. Second, no one has ever discussed a book at a meeting, at least that I’m aware of. As a long time member, I try to attend meetings regularly.

Stop by this Friday, and we’ll tell you what next week’s assignment is.

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